Bulding the Wood Shop: Part X - Siding, Soffit, and Paint

The weather warmed, and the shop was ready for some finishing touches on the exterior. I had thought over and over about what the exterior finish was going to be. The original idea - way back when - was to use a board and batten, of cedar. The method of construction didn't lend itself well to a vertical siding, however - and cedar was much too far outside of my budget. Next I thought maybe I could do a cheat of a board and batten - basically use a plywood and nail battens on top of it. This was most tempting, but truthfully it didn't match the neighborhood, nor did it match the house, which is currently T1-11 Besides that, the plywood used today simply doesn't have the quality of the plywood used just 20 years ago unless you buy the highest priced stuff out there - which kind of defeats the purpose of using the stuff to my mind... . So - for those same reasons I considered T1-11 and just as soon abandoned it. Another choice could have been steel or vinyl lap siding - but that just doesn't turn my crank at all. subdivisions, so I wrote those off of my list.

In the end, it was budget that made the call, I'm sad to say. There were two choices in my price range - fiber cement lap siding (HardiPlank by James Hardie) and composite wood lap siding and trim (LP's "SmartSide"). It was a tough decision to make, believe it or not... Tough because I didn't like either option - but basically needed to put something up, so here's how I decided. Whether it makes any sense is up to you, but it seemed all quite logical. Of course if I had my druthers it would have been something a little more elegant, but then again one has to draw the line somewhere. It's not like I live in a neighborhood of million-dollar homes, nor do I have that sort of income.


Source: norsewoodsmith.com

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A very general question about fixer upper.

I know it all depends.
Given a 1000 square foot 2bd/1ba bungalow in say, East Bay,
What's a general price range of replacing, repairing, roof, shingle siding, T1-11 siding, plumbing, flooring, paint?
Is it 5-10K for composite roof or 15-25K or ?
Is it 5-10K for shingles or 10-20K?
Is it 3-5K for T1-11 or 5-12K?
Is it 10-15K or 15-25K for plumbing? Major plumbing repair.
Is it 3-5K for hard wood Pergo floors or 5-12K ?
And painting exterior and interior, 5-10K?
Am I close at all?
Any experience and comments are welcomed.

Ogdensburg home rehabilitation program gears up for phase two, on schedule  — WatertownDailyTimes.com
Some homes will receive extensive and visible rehabilitation, including the installation of vinyl siding, roofing and windows. Other homes won't have an obvious exterior update but will have new furnaces or flooring put in.

Shur-Line Shur-Line 00750 7-Inch Deck and Fence Pad Painter
Home Improvement (Shur-Line)
  • Rounded edges at both front and rear allows a scrubbing action which is necessary when applying paint/stain to rough surface
  • Ideal for applying exterior stains and paints to rough surfaces such as cedar siding or wood fences
  • Use with all paints and stains
Valspar Valspar/Cabot Part # 01-3000 Clear Solution, Natural ~ 1 Gallon
Lawn & Patio (Valspar)
  • Penetrating oil protection in just one coat/Protects against sun, elements & warping
  • Natural, water-repellent finish for bare wood/For new or reconditioned wood only
  • Use on decks, siding, shingles, trim & log homes
  • Smooth surface coverage: 400-600 sq.ft. per Gal.
  • Rough surface coverage: 150-250 sq.ft. per Gal.
Valspar/Cabot Valspar/Cabot #0806.008 Siding Stain, Solid Color - Acrylic/Neutral - 5 Gallons
Lawn & Patio (Valspar/Cabot)
  • 100% acrylic, one-coat coverage, solid color stain
  • Fade-resistant & water-repellent/Dries to a natural, flat finish
  • Water-based, clean up with soap & water
  • Smooth surface coverage: 300-400 sq.ft. per Gal/Rough surface coverage: 200-300 sq.ft. per Gal

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