Cedar siding window trim

Window Trim Install

Western Red Cedar Siding

Installing 5/4 x 4 primed cedar FJ around Anderson windows. I like to remove about an 1/8" x 1 5/8" all the way so the trim sits flat against the sheathing and not the window nail flange.

Usually, I rip the trim on edge through the saw with a wide kerf blade. That gives me the rabbit all the way without a secondary cut needed. I like to also rip a 5 degree in the short edge so the trim sits perfectly against the window. Anderson makes a solid product but the side of the window turns into the flange on a sweeping curve, not a 90 so without the 5 degree rip the trim won't get closer than 3/16"...not acceptable.

My question is does anyone have a more efficient way of rabbitting the stock? Considering a longer flute on my router but don't want to burn out the motor (50 boards at 20' long). I don't currently own a router table as well, will buy one if a solid idea calls for it as I've rabbitted trim for yrs.

Source: www.contractortalk.com

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Depends on the window company then.

When I had to replace 12 windows and they needed to be retrofit w/o fins, the window company that I dealt with basically just cut off the fins in the factory. They did not make anything like what you have described. As there was some exposure, what I did was set them in place flush with where the fin would be against the sheeting. Cut 4" strips of Grace Ice and Snow Shield and applied to the existing t1-11 overlapping the exterior window frame on the top and sides making sure to fill each groove of the siding with 100% silicone. Then I ran 1x4 cedar trim over that also heavily caulking the top, side, and grooves of the siding

Sikkens Sikkens Cetol 1 Translucent Exterior Stain 1 Gallon Cedar
Home Improvement (Sikkens)
  • Type: Translucent
  • Sheen: Satin
  • Premium translucent exterior wood basecoat to be used with Cetol 23
  • Usage: Siding, Trim, Entrance Doors, Garage Doors, Windows, Log Homes
  • Technology: Alkyd oil

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