Cedar siding Installation instructions

Installation Information

Click here to see instructions

In the event Cedar Valley published application instructions conflict or contradict local building codes, please call the factory for clarification. If no local codes exist, refer to the 2003 I.C.C. residential building codes for guidelines.


With flush-mounting corners, install corner first. Double wrap corners with building paper. Use two nails per corner side, 1.25″ down from tip. Install the separate corner units provided in the A, B, C, D pattern stamped on the back (2 of each per bundle). Caulk corner edges well. Trim panel end and push against caulked corner edge. Nail panel as per instructions. (No starter course is needed.) With add-on corners, install all panels first, positioning so that panel ends are flush with corner without overlap. (Panel ends do not need to be trimmed.) Nail panel as per instructions. Apply corners using two nails per corner side, 1” above the exposure line of the panel being installed. Add-on corners require one course starter pieces or shims, using either prefabricated units supplied or site-made from individual shingles. Apply appropriate building paper under panels as per building code requirements. Double wrap corners a minimum 9-inches each side.


See published application instructions for standard nailing details

See 1 Course Blind Nail Hurricane instructions for hurricane nailing patterns.


Plan panel layout from lowest building corner after determining corner type to be used. Panels may be applied directly to studs 16″ or 24″ O.C., or to nailable shear sheathing, over approved building paper in accordance with building codes. Panels must span at least two stud spacings and vertical end joints should be staggered to join on stud. Horizontal scribed guidelines enable proper alignment of succeeding panels without measuring or leveling every panel. NOTE: Panels do not meet shear requirements.

Source: cedar-valley.com

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Need siding options for shed

A friend just accepted a job offer in another state. The conditions were that he start immediately, so he has left his wife and small children to sell the house.
He has an unfinished shed in the back that is 100 square feet floor space and sheathed with OSB. It is about 9 feet tall on the sides. His original plan was to side it with cedar. I'd like to finish this project for him at a lower cost than the cedar (their finances are modest), but better than painting over OSB.
I'm inexperienced with siding, but I know how to measure, cut, and caulk.
What options are available?
Thanks much.

Recycling deck

I am about to rebuild my deck and replace the existing ugly PT 2x6 boards with either cedar (2x6 boards) or brazilian redwood 1x4(boards) - but I would like to recycle the pt pine boards.
They are well aged - probably 10 to 15 years, and lost the greenish tone - almost look like bare pine, after I powerwash to remove the paint that was covering them.
I would like to rip them - actually "slice" at height(1/3/4"), so I can make use it as siding for a yard tool shed. Some boards are about 14' and get smaller as they are laid at 45 degrees on a 10x25 deck.
Can this be done on a 10" table saw - it's a ryobi bt3000, or I risk way too many troubles?
Is there any way to do it?

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  • Avatar jeffs_wife_ali _&_adams_mom Does my cedar siding need to be replaced?
    Apr 03, 2009 by jeffs_wife_ali _&_adams_mom | Posted in Maintenance & Repairs

    I have cedar boards (not the little shakes) on my house, and I've noticed that the east and south facing boards are looking dry, and seem to be lifting up at the bottom (curling a bit). It is stained with a heavy, dark …h side looks perfectly fine. Can I salvage the east and south siding of my house? I really can't afford to re-side, but I'd like to sell in a year or two, and don't want a dingy looking house to show. Any suggestions?

    • Try to do as the gentleman suggested, I agree that the nails may have pulled through or rusted out the south wall especially usually get hit with most of the noontime sun , with the east and west getting less abuse from …lly have. (I have not had much luck at all going to one of the big box stores and finding a salesperson who has such knowledge) The Consumer Reports had a good article last year on paints and stains I found very helpful.

  • Avatar Sharon Replacing wood on my house - cedar vs regular treated wood?
    Aug 20, 2007 by Sharon | Posted in Maintenance & Repairs

    We have Cedar wood on the outside of our house. It's old and needs replacing. What are the advantages/disadvantages of replacing the wood with cedar vs treated wood? Does cedar last much longer? Is it much more expensive? I live in Florida, if the weather makes a difference? Someone suggested I just go with vinyl siding, but wouldn't that look tacky on a ranch style home??

    Thanks for any input you can provide!

    • The weather does make a difference, as you purported.

      Cedar is naturally insect resistant and lasts a long time out in the weather. Out of all the natural wood sidings available, cedar is relatively the be ….. which is good, ESPECIALLY economically, but it's the looks of it which are it's downfall... but THERE ARE MANY DIFFERENT STYLES which are available, you just have to research it on your own.

      Good luck!